How to improve the performance of a folding workbench

11-12-2022

I like to create with my hands. I particularly enjoy creating useful items out of wood. Unfortunately, my self-designed and built 6 X 3-foot garage workbench tends to be literate with miscellaneous “stuff,” and I find myself at my wit’s end trying to build projects on a piece of plywood strung on two sawhorses. folding . Not ideal, I agree. I appreciate the convenience of being able to disassemble and store the components of my makeshift work surface. What I don’t like is that the work surface is not as stable and requires a separate set of clamps to attach the work surface to the easels.

Looking for something sturdier than a piece of plywood and some adjustable clamps, I found that there are several folding workbenches on the market from manufacturers like Worx, Black and Decker, and sold at places like Home Depot, Lowes, and Harbor Freight. . Their prices are varied, but they all have similar characteristics. I especially like benches that fold flat, store easily, have built-in adjustable “bench vises,” and can carry moderate loads.

After researching the various offers, I settled on an inexpensive folding workbench from Harbor Freight.

After researching the various offers, I settled on an inexpensive folding workbench from Harbor Freight. Price was a determining factor. You can see what I finally bought by following the link embedded below in the Resources section below.

The folding workbench comes as a kit. Critical items are pre-assembled. I had to mount the two crank assemblies to the two fiberboard work surfaces, then mount the legs and their bracing crosspieces that double as tool stations. Assembly was quick; I just needed to supply a Philips head screwdriver.

Unfortunately, the finished workbench does not fold up completely. But the workbench works just the way I wanted it to—it’s a sturdy, portable workbench that I can easily take around the house or out to the backyard to practice my woodworking skills. Added some extra speed clamps and a 6″ portable vise, and I’m done (my first project was making and attaching two pieces of ¼” wood siding to the metal jaws of the 6″ vise). 6″).

Looking at the construction of the workbench, it occurred to me that with a few minor modifications, this workbench could be materially improved. And that’s what prompted me to write this “How To” article to document what I did to my workbench.

There are five areas on that workbench that, with a few minor modifications, will materially improve its performance and likely extend its life. None of these suggestions is critical or even necessary for the casual user. None of these suggestions are complicated to implement, but I think they will probably pay off as time goes on.

Area #1: The “Fold Flat” feature.

When this workbench is assembled according to the instructions, when folded, the handles point down the legs toward the floor. By reversing the way the legs are mounted (exactly the reverse of the installation instructions), the handles are now on top of the folded bench, pointing away from the legs, and the legs fold flat! An easy solution.

Area #2: The adjustment of the crank clamp lead screw.

I noticed that the table that is mounted to the hand operated lead vise that makes work surface tables work as a built in vise, was loose and came loose when the handles were turned. To remedy this, I used a wrench to tighten the crankshaft fixture onto the moving work surface so there was less play as the unit rotated. Don’t overtighten, or the board won’t budge at all!

Area #3: The clamp bracket on the sheet metal end of the crank lead screw.

Each of the crank lead screws pass through an end plate that is bent from the sheet metal of the leg support. If you look closely, you’ll notice that the lead screw plate is secured to the sidewalls by two sheet metal “ears” and two small dimples in the sidewalls. That seems like a potential source of failure downstream – nothing is preventing the sidewalls from coming apart and allowing the crank to loosen. My solution? Simple: I installed a hold down and safety bolt through the side walls just behind the end plate. To secure the side plates and prevent them from separating, about 1 inch from the end plate I drilled a ¼” clearance hole through the two side plates (which also mount the legs) and put in a 1 ½ inch bolt. long, ¼ -20 with a washer and locknut.Tightening the locknut secures the end plate to the side wall plates, this will prevent the end plate that holds the lead screw and cranks from coming loose over time.

Area #4: Friction reduction.

The assembly instructions told me to use one bolt, two washers, and one locknut on each leg to hold it in place. The problem is that that means the legs will wear out on the side plates. It is not a good idea. I bought 8 more stainless steel flat washers and slid those washers in between the legs and side panels. Now the legs will wear on the washers instead of the side plates. This makes the leg lock assembly consisting of the bolt head, washer, side plate, washer, leg, washer, other side plate, washer, and then the locknut. So each of the legs now has 4 washers: two washers on the outside of the side panels and two washers to keep the leg from rubbing directly on the side wall. Again, don’t over-tighten, or the workbench won’t bend.

Area #5: Making things run smoothly.

Be sure to lubricate all moving surfaces with oil, WD-40 or a dry film lubricant (you can use a light grease on the two lead screws, but if you grease the slide rail I think you’ll find that the grease will probably be a sawdust magnet!). Be sure to lubricate all sliding or swivel joints and connectors, especially the added washers on the legs where they mount to the side plates.

Area #6: Replace fiberboard work surfaces.

Although this is a bench designed for light to moderate loads, you might consider replacing the work surface fiberboards with 1½ X 4-inch pieces of wood, with appropriately drilled holes for plastic tie inserts. If you’re comfortable with an electric planer or router, make a suitable notch to clear the cranks and use 1 ½ X 6-inch planks for work surfaces. That will give you a larger work surface when both panels are maxed out.

As I said at the beginning of this article, none of these rework items are absolutely necessary; The workbench will work great if you simply follow the included assembly instructions. But I think these minor modifications and reworks will enhance your enjoyment of this inexpensive folding workbench. I know what I have

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