How to dress your plus size body shape in vintage clothing
Legal LawTired of raiding malls and chain stores to find something new and different? Don’t you see anything tempting in the catalogues? Then try VINTAGE! Where almost EVERYTHING is unique! Let’s put it this way: you won’t find yourself at a party!
You might think that because you’re plus size, you can’t wear vintage clothing. If you can! I’m tall, busty, broad-shouldered, and plus-sized, and my closet is full of cool vintage clothes. Let’s put it this way: If a 300-pound drag queen can dress like Cher, you can be whoever you want to be. We’ll start with the basics. Picture me holding your hand as we walk through Vintage Land!
Find YOUR unique vintage style
How have you always wanted to see yourself? Like a wild rockabilly babe? A blonde sex bomb like Marilyn Monroe? A temptress like Bettie Page? A 1920s flapper like Clara Bow? A broad-shouldered 1940s girl like Joan Crawford? A 60’s Mod like Edie Sedgwick? Does ’80s redhead Joan Collins have gold? All of that is possible when you mix the right modern and vintage pieces.
Think about what era attracts you the most and why. That’s the key to finding your vintage personality.
Some are drawn to the beads, fringes and velvets of the 1920s. Others want the elegant look of the 1930s. Others love the ultra-structured look of the 40s or the “bombshell” look of the 50s. Others love Mod, hippie, in fact there are too many styles and eras to list here!
Do not be afraid to dream! The only limit when it comes to getting started is your imagination.
Getting Started: The Basics
First of all, take a good look at your figure and what you want emphasize. It can be your bust, your legs, your butt or your face. You should take your measurements everywhere: bust, waist, hips, shoulder to waist, waist to crotch, inseam, thigh width if you are shopping for pants.
Yeah, this part is probably scary. many of us don’t want to know our measures. We kid ourselves about what dress size we are. I once had to get measured over the phone for a TV costume, and after every measurement, I screamed! (Fortunately, the locker room lady was used to it.)
I recommend that you also measure your absolute favorite pieces to see how they fit you best. Not the ones you USED to wear, the pieces you wear NOW. Some like it tight, like Mae West; some like it fluid. When it comes to establishing your personal style, knowledge is power! And what do these pieces have that you love? The color? The cut? (Sweatshirts don’t count!)
You can go to your local bookstore or search the Internet for photos of movie stars of yesteryear. In the old days, Hollywood fan magazines encouraged women to identify with movie stars. But who can identify with Nicole Kidman? Or Charlize Theron? This will also give you ideas of styles and eras. Images of real eras and personalities are so much more helpful than those “How To Vintage” guides, which end up making everyone look the same!
Getting Started: The Basics, Part Two
your figure type
According to experts, there are between four and six types of figures for plus size women. I will choose the four most basic.
1) the hourglass
Her overall shape is curvaceous, her hips and bust are about the same width. Your waist is well defined and is at least seven inches smaller than your bust or hips. You may have a full round butt. Her thighs are full, but narrower than the bottom of her hips, and her legs are shapely and proportionately slim.
two) The pear.
Your hips and thighs are wider than your shoulders and bust. You store most of your weight in your stomach, thighs, and buttocks. Your hip may widen just below your waist, but it’s usually widest eight inches below your waist at “low hip.” Kate Winslet, believe it or not, is a pear.
3) The rectangle. You are erect from top to bottom, with a somewhat small bust and little or no waist definition. It may have a fleshy back and a slightly short neck, but it tends to have relatively skinny arms and legs. Kim Cattrall is a Rectangle, but you would never know it.
4) The Apple. You carry most of your weight in your bust, waist, and back, with relatively slim hips and legs. You tend to have a somewhat heavy look on top. Catherine Zeta-Jones is considered an Apple!
What body shape are you?
Not all bodies are EXACTLY like the shapes described above, but pick the one that’s closest to you.
Okay, first of all, anyone in any way can wear a kaftan or a muumuu, so that’s out of the way. These are not hard and fast rules, just suggestions.
Hourglass: go for the sexy! Just like Marilyn, you can wear tight, fitted 1950s cardigans, capri pants, pencil skirts, and ruffled dresses. Or, like Jean Harlow, you can rock those sexy 1930s skew dresses and slips (although you may have to wear Spanx underneath). You don’t have to wear stilettos, but any type of shoe that shows off your legs is a good idea. Mix modern pieces like corset tops to highlight your bust or shrugs to cover your upper arms if you’re self-conscious about it. You can wear almost any decade, except Mod could look “wrong” on your figure, especially A-line dresses. And too many frills can look like a costume unless you’re on the smaller side.
pears: You often have shapely arms, so you can get away with camisoles and other sleeveless looks. Long Victorian and Edwardian skirts (and their ’70s counterparts) are great for your shape, as are vintage high, low, and mid-calf boots. Remember how good Kate Winslet looked in her “Titanic” dresses? If you want to shop for mid-century dresses, look for dresses on the longer side, which show off your top and skim the bottom. These will be easier to find in the 50’s and 70’s than in the 40’s or 60’s. Avoid novelty pockets on your skirts and dresses. Also avoid hip-hugger jeans from the ’70s, but look for dreamy tops from the same decade. Unlike the hourglass, you can work the 1960s A-line cut.
Rectangle: Your wardrobe needs curves, but clothes that work for the hourglass won’t work for your figure. Look for circle skirts (not pencil skirts!), fancy shoes, dresses with interesting necks and shoulders (not frills, but more sophisticated details like darts, pleats, and sequins). You were made to wear beautiful beaded dresses from the 1920s. Shawls and scarves also add fluidity and curves to your look. And you can really achieve Mod!
Apple: Depending on the dress, you too can wear Mod clothing (remember Stacy Turnblad in “Hairspray”?). Show off your legs with shorter dresses, show off your cleavage with trendy surplice necklines with vintage mini skirts! You can also wear beaded 1950s cardigans with modern heelless pants. As long as you avoid the bulge around the waist and don’t hide in layers and layers of fabric, you can wear just about any decade.
Acquire your unique vintage wardrobe
Start with basic pieces, just as you would your contemporary wardrobe. If you like dresses, start there. Ditto with separations. Searching online is a better bet than most vintage stores, though you never know what you’ll find at your local thrift store!
Unfortunately, just like with contemporary clothing, a lot depends on your budget. There are spectacular plus size dresses from all eras, but many of them are also spectacularly priced. I don’t sell expensive vintage clothing, but I don’t often come across a famous designer or silk dress in perfect condition either. Dior did not do large sizes.
If you just HAVE to have that mink coat or that taffeta dress, if you have the money, buy it! You won’t regret it for a minute. I have spent more than I intended once or twice, but it was on dresses that I love and wear quite often.
But if you’re on a budget, look for vintage winter clothing in the summer. Also limit the amount of harvest you buy. Vintage accessories are often affordably priced, and you can get the look you want with the right vintage hat, shoes, bag, and jewelry for a lot less than that mink coat.
And remember, part of the cost of your vintage wardrobe will be upkeep. Unlike today’s clothing, you can’t throw your Ceil Chapman in the washing machine. Much of it needs to be professionally cleaned or carefully washed by hand.
And invest in you! If you want a high-maintenance look, like a glamorous platinum blonde, that’s part of your budget: hairstyling, nail polish, etc. You can ruin a great vintage look if you carry around a tattered old microfiber bag and don’t bother doing more with your hair than fluffing it up with your fingers.
The most important part of all!
Be confident! You’re beautiful!
You can rock any look you choose, as long as you feel comfortable and confident in your clothes and accessories. It takes courage (or what they used to call in the 1930s, “moxie”) to pull off a look that’s meaningful to you. But the more you do it, the more you’ll like it. I promise!
Now go shopping! And remember, BIG GIRLS RULE!