Do you want curls with that?: The history of hair perm treatment and how it works
SportsHair treatments have been used throughout history by women and men alike to enhance their appearance. One of the most famous hair treatments that is still used to this day is the permanent treatment.
When a perm treatment is performed on a person’s hair, curls are created on the hair shaft. These curls appear as a consequence of the alteration of the chemical structure of the hair.
Due to the use of chemical treatments, curls made with a perm treatment last longer than curls made with heat or styling with rollers. The curls made with this treatment cannot be destroyed unless another chemical treatment is done on the person’s hair.
Perm treatment goes way back in history. Ancient Egyptian women used to put a mixture of earth and water in their hair. Then they fix their hair with primitive curlers made of wood and bask in the sun to warm their hair.
After the hair dryer was invented, setting lotions were used to replace the “mud treatment” that was introduced by Egyptian women. However, these setting lotions did not provide lasting results for women who wanted to replace their straight hair with curls.
Then permanent waves became available on the market in the 1920s. This type of permanent treatment used electrical devices (rather than the sun) to generate heat in the hair.
But since most heating devices didn’t have thermostats back then, the amount of heat flowing to the hair was unregulated. Therefore, these harsh early perm treatments led to the hair becoming dry. The end results were frizzy curls that were unmanageable and difficult to maintain.
Then the cold wave was introduced in the 1940s. The cold wave is basically what modern perm treatment is today. Since the heat used in a cold snap can be easily regulated, hair can now be curled closer to the scalp with this treatment.
In a perm treatment, hair is washed and rolled into rollers or curling irons to set it in place. The permanent lotion is then applied to the hair as it is still set in curlers.
The permanent lotion is responsible for breaking the bonds of the hair that keep it in shape. Since the hair and perm lotion have different pH levels, it causes the hair to react to the perm lotion once it is applied.
The permanent lotion opens the cuticles of the hair by entering its cortex. It is in the cortex where the disulfide bonds that are capable of giving shape to the hair are found. Once the perm lotion reacts with these bonds, the bonds loosen and take the shape of the hair as it sets into curlers.
After the permanent lotion is applied, the hair is placed under regulated heat to help soften and loosen the bonds that hold it in shape.
After rinsing the permanent lotion out of the hair, a neutralizing lotion is applied. In this part of the treatment, the neutralizing lotion allows the bonds broken by the permanent lotion to regenerate. The hair then stiffens and retains its curly shape.
However, this stage of the perm treatment can cause irritation and damage to the hair shaft if not done correctly. If the neutralization is not done correctly, the hair ties may not be hard enough to resist breakage and damage. Also, the neutralizing lotion can irritate the scalp if not rinsed out well.
After the perm treatment, it is recommended that the client not shampoo their hair for a few days. Shampoo can interrupt the “curing” process of the treatment. Curls may not look as expected if the client enthusiastically washes their hair after treatment.
On the other hand, it is advisable to frequently condition newly permed hair to prevent damage.
A perm treatment is a good way to give a person’s hair volume and body. However, one must keep in mind that different people have different types of hair. Therefore, a perm treatment, or any hair treatment, can produce different results for different people.
If one is interested in receiving any treatment for their hair, they should consider finding a stylist they trust. They should also fully understand the type of treatment and what it does to their hair.
Also, no one would want to do anything to damage their hair. As the saying goes, “Hair is your crowning glory.”